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The balcony of 'Juliet's House' in Verona

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Verona
Romeo & Juliet's home town

Verona - the Arena and Piazza Bra (c) Fototeca ENIT / Vito Arcomano

Verona - Ponte Scaligero (c) Fototeca ENIT / Vito Arcomano


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This stylish riverside city is just right for romance. ‘Fair Verona’ is the exquisitely elegant little town where William Shakespeare set one of the most romantic stories ever told. Visitors tend to make a bee-line for "Juliet’s House", but there are any number of other pretty balconies in Verona’s historic centre where tragic Juliet might have stood waiting for her Romeo.
  The narrow, pedestrianised main shopping street and handsome piazzas are paved with pink and white marble. All around are grand old mansions and little fortified palaces, chic tempting shops, street entertainers and outdoor café tables. Juliet’s story was very sad, but for today’s visitors – whether friends or lovers, newlyweds or anyone with something to celebrate – this fairytale town almost guarantees a happy ending.


 What, why, where

A grandiose, beautifully preserved Roman, medieval and Renaissance city, Verona spans the river Adige in productive farmland on a plain at the foot of the Alps. Lake Garda and the Valpolicella wine country are nearby. The old heart of the city, contained within ancient walls and protected by the river, is a busy area of narrow shopping streets and Renaissance architecture.

Spring, early summer and autumn are very enjoyable, mainly sunny, with temperatures in the mid 70s. High summer can be too hot and humid, and at that time the town also fills up with Italian tourists who come to hear opera in the Roman arena. 

 Getting started

The tourist office is in Piazza Bra (Mon-Sat 9-7, Sun 9-3).
Pick up a Verona Card from shops, museums and attractions or the tourist office. This all-inclusive discount ticket costs either 10€ for one day or 15€ for 3 days. It allows free public transport, access to several museums and monuments in Verona.
www.tourism.verona.it

 Compass points

Since Roman times, the locals’ favourite meeting place in Verona has been the long, narrow almond-shaped Piazza del Erbe, in the middle of the old quarter. Even more spectacular is the vast Piazza Bra, with gardens and restaurants curved alongside a Roman arena. Hundreds of people come here each evening just to stroll in the pleasant balmy air.

 Get the feel

It can be hard to remember that Romeo and Juliet never existed, and Shakespeare didn't know Verona. A delightful courtyard dwelling has been selected as Juliet's House, a front balcony added to it, and crowds gather to admire it.
  Yet Verona rewards a visit even if you have no interest in the famous tragedy. It's a handsome, vibrant medieval town with stylish shops, good restaurants and a remarkable Roman arena.
  For Italians it's best known for a great annual opera festival, with a season of prestigious performances held in the arena every summer.

 Getting around

AMT run the city's public bus system, which extends throughout the Verona region.
  Shuttle buses connect the airport to Verona railway station, and you may wish to catch another bus from there into the heart of the city.
  The walled heart of the old city is small enough to explore on foot.
www.amt.it

 Entertainment and nightlife

After dinner, stroll into the lanes of the riverside Sottoriva area where there are lively bars with music. Choose between an enoteca (wine bar) and a birreria (beer tavern). For late-night discos and clubs look around Piazza San Zeno, west of Castelvecchio.

 Eat, drink, stay

Numerous atmospheric restaurants in Verona city centre serve traditional regional dishes while for something cheaper, there are dozens of pizzerias.
  Tuck in to Verona’s hearty specialities, like Rissotto alla Marone – that’s rice cooked in strong local Marone red wine. Freshly made tortellini pasta filled with cheese, vegetables or meat is delicious too. Other favourite local rib-liners include polenta and gnocchi. For decent local wine, choose Valpolicella Classico.
  The relaxed Trattoria di Giovanni Rana, in Piazza Bra, is one of the best restaurants in town, with smart, efficient waiters and nicely laid outdoor tables looking straight across at the Roman arena. The speciality of the house is tortello (filled pasta), but the fish and game dishes are also excellent. www.trattoriagiovannirana.it

The best place to stay is in the historic city centre, which has dozens of attractive small hotels in all categories. For lower prices, look in the avenues west of the arena, such as Corso Porta Nuova, leading to the railway station.

 Flights to Verona

  Flight time to Verona from London and regional UK airports is around 2h15m.
  Flights to Verona land at Verona Villafranca international airport "Valerio Catullo".
  Transfer shuttle - The airport is about 12 km from the city. For transfers from the airport into central Verona, a shuttle bus runs to Verona railway station every 20 minutes.
www.aeroportoverona.it.

 Must-see

 Juliet's House (Casa di Giulietta) 
Step through an archway into the little cobbled courtyard of a Gothic house. There on the wall is the tiny balcony where, they say, Juliet stood and sighed ‘Wherefore art thou, Romeo?’ Even though she never really existed, there’s a statue of Juliet by the door – stroke her right breast to be lucky in love (yes, men can do this too)! For 4€, you can go up and stand on the balcony yourself. 23 Via Cappello.

 Roman Arena  
Still in constant use for concerts and shows, Verona’s magnificent 2000-year-old arena, built of huge stone blocks, was one of the biggest in the Roman empire. From the top there are terrific views over the town and surrounding hills. Verona has other Roman remains, including a theatre on the other side of the river.

 Ponte Scaligero
This heavily fortified medieval bridge spans the river Adige, its cobbled footway running between high brick walls with narrow look-out holes. It connects to the Castelvecchio, a 14th-century brick castle that now contains Verona’s main art museum.

 The churches  
Verona has many impressive old churches, such as the grandiose Duomo (cathedral) in striped red brick and white stone, and fascinating St Zeno church, with its elaborately decorated ceiling, marble floor, arcaded crypt and peaceful cloisters.

 Venice  
Another city – yet it's one of Verona's leading attractions. Venice is just 1˝ hours away by train, and Verona makes the ideal base for a day-trip to this amazing car-free city of waterways, palaces and quiet lanes. You arrive at Venice train station, right beside the main Grand Canal, with vaporetti (like water-borne buses) going straight to St Mark’s Square.

 Buy it

Bacli di Giulietta (“Juliet’s Kisses”) – Look in foodie shops for these delectable soft round biscuits with creamy filling.

Luxury leather – Lots of stores sell smart high-quality Italian handbags, elegant wallets and stylish Italian ladies’ shoes.

Fashions – Narrow main shopping streets Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari are lined with designer stores, fabulous lingerie boutiques and brilliant clothes shops. Top spot for low-cost fashions with masses of Italian flair is Upim, with Fiorucci in the basement (corner of Mazzini and Portici).

Fine foods – If you love gourmet cooking, take home quality oils, wines, pasta and other local products, for example from Di Rossi in Corso Porta Borsari.

 In the Know

The locals’ favourite between-meals tipple is sparkling dry white Prosecco, usually served with nuts or olives.

Book well ahead, especially for a summer visit.

Get to Juliet's balcony early in the morning as the little courtyard beneath it gets crammed.

Shops and sights are mainly open on Sunday but closed on Monday mornings.

 Events and festivals

Festival Lirico
In 2010: 18 June-29 August
Verona is famous for this world-class summertime open-air opera festival, with performances in the spectacular setting of the 2000-year-old Roman arena. If you love a big stage show, this makes an extra special treat.

The 2010 season includes performances of  Turandot (Puccini), Aida (Verdi), Madama Butterfly (Puccini), Carmen (Bizet) and Il Trovatore (Verdi). For details and bookings, see the arena’s website:
www.arena.it

 Verona basics

- Where is Verona?
Verona is in north-west Italy close to the Italian Lakes and about an hour from Venice.
- International phone dialling code:
00 372 (+ drop initial 0 from local number)
- Time zone:

GMT/BST + 1 hours.
- Money:

Euro (€)
.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Text © Focus Guides and Andrew Sanger.
Written 2010
.
Photographs by Vito Arcomano are © Fototeca ENIT, used with permission.
All rights reserved worldwide.

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