FCUS GUIDES

Tel-Aviv-Jaffa (Tel-Aviv-Yafo in Hebrew) is located on Israel's Mediterranean coast, in the region known as Gush Dan. With a population just over 1 million, it's thought to be the largest Jewish city ever to have existed.
  Tel Aviv sprang into life in 1909 when a group of Jewish families quit the ancient, squalid port city of Jaffa, where the local Arabs were violently hostile to them, to build a healthy, spacious, modern town of their own. On bare sand-dunes north of Jaffa they laid out the fine boulevards and neighbourhoods of what is now a district in southern Tel Aviv.
  In the 1920s and 1930s, the city grew rapidly as Jewish refugees poured in from an anti-semitic Europe. The city's architecture in Bauhaus (or International) style, dates from that period. The expanding Tel Aviv soon encompassed Jaffa itself, becoming a single municipality of Tel-Aviv-Jaffa.
  In 1948 the modern state of Israel was declared in Tel Aviv, which was the new state's capital for two years (after which Jerusalem became the capital). Tel Aviv remains Israel's premier city and economic hub.

Tel Aviv's small tourist office, staffed by volunteers, is on the beachside boulevard at 46 Herbert Samuel Street (corner of Geula Street). It is staffed by volunteers.
www.tel-aviv.gov.il (Tel Aviv municipaility)
www.visit-tlv.com (Tel Aviv tourism)
www.telavivcity.com (Tel Aviv Life & Travel)

Tel Aviv clings close to the sea and runs on a north-south axis, from upscale North Tel Aviv and the Yarkon River, down through the city centre, running a little further south into Tel Aviv's increasingly fashionable older neighbourhoods like Neve Tzedek, and eventually reaching ancient Jaffa, formerly an Arab port town, now an entertainment and nightlife district of Tel Aviv.
  For locals, Tel Aviv’s focal points are Dizengoff Square, Dizengoff Street and the nearby avenues, just two or three blocks from the sea, and Sheinkin Street, which links Rothschild Boulevard to Carmel Market.
  The main 'hotel district' is along Hayarkon Street between Ben Gurion and Allenby streets, though there are plenty of other hotels north and south of here, and inland.
  Discos, clubs and late dance venues are on and off Allenby Street, and in the southern half of the city centre.

Tel Aviv is brimming with crowds, energy, life, joie de vivre. The city centre is packed with arts venues, tempting shops, café culture and nightlife. Despite all-night clubs and 24-hour entertainment, there is almost no crime or drunkenness.
  Locals, as much as visitors, like to cool off by the sea. Grab a falafel in pitta or a shwarma, Israel’s popular budget take-aways, and walk the wide seafront promenade or tayelet beside the vast sandy beach,  where young Tel Avivans swim or play matkot (like ping pong with a hard ball and no net).
  Turn into the narrow streets of the Yemenite Quarter (or Kerem Yateimanim), named for the Yemeni Jews who settled here years ago. Push through the crowds in hectic traditional Carmel Market, which has a feel of 19th-century Jewish life.
  Explore Tel Aviv’s first neighbourhoods, like lovely Rothschild Boulevard, now lined with chic eateries and restored white 1930s Bauhaus buildings. Here too visit Independence Hall and see monuments to the city's founders.
  Head south (walk the seafront promenade or 10 minutes by taxi) to discover the ancient, picturesque port town of Jaffa, a popular dining and entertainment district for Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv is easy, pleasant and safe to walk around at any time of day or night. The city also has an extensive and inexpensive bus system; all bus drivers speak English up to a competent level, and despite an air of impatience they are in fact always willing to help. If you get to know the routes they follow, sherutim (shared taxis following fixed routes) are very useful for longer journeys. Taxis are a fast, inexpensive way of getting around, and can be hailed in the street.

They say Tel Aviv ‘never sleeps’. Let's hope that's not literally true. But it does have terrific nightlife. You’ll find all-night clubs and a party atmosphere on Allenby St and in the vibrant Florentin and Neve Tzedek districts.
  The city’s entertainment also includes drama, world-class concerts and opera at such prestigious venues as Habima Theatre (Tarsat Blvd, +972 3 6295555) and Mann Auditorium (Huberman St, +972 3 5289163) and modern dance at Suzanne Dellal Centre (Yechieli St, +972 3 5105656).

Israeli eating has distinctive characteristics – especially the fondness for fresh, finely chopped salads, eaten at every meal including breakfast. Tel Aviv has hundreds of good, moderately priced eating places.
  Restaurants, bars and cafes catering for tourists usually have menus in both Hebrew and English. Portions tend to be generous, while the cooking is a fascinating fusion of everything from French to sushi, hearty East European fare to spicy Middle Eastern flavours. For dinner, follow locals to the city centre or Tel Aviv Port, where the top gourmet choice is Moul Hayam. At the beach, try big, popular, informal Yotvata fish-and-dairy restaurant (Herbert Samuel Blvd). Among several authentic, atmospheric places in the Yemenite quarter, try the roast meats at Shaul’s Inn (Eliyashiv St). For fresh fish with a sea view, head to Old Jaffa, packed in the evenings.
  The beachside hotels are expensive but reach a high standard. 5-star Dan (99 Hayarkon St) and Sheraton (115 Hayarkon St) are the city's top names. Head south for lower prices. Particularly good value is the large, family-friendly Dan Panorama (10 Kaufmann St). At almost all hotels, standard B&B rates include the huge Israeli breakfast of salads, cooked dishes and bakery items. A block or two inland, smaller, more affordable hotels includes the beautifully restored Bauhaus Cinema Hotel (Dizengoff Sq), a treasure-house of movie memorabilia.

Flight time for flights from London to Tel Aviv is around 5 hours. Easyjet operate low-cost flights from London to Tel Aviv. Other airlines include former national carrier El Al. Flights to Israel arrive at large, modern Tel Aviv Ben-Gurion Airport, on the Jerusalem highway 20km (12 miles) south-east of Tel Aviv. Airport facilities are open day and night.
  For travel from Ben Gurion Airport into central Tel Aviv, shuttle bus 222 serves Tel Aviv’s seafront hotels. Taxis can be found at the official cab rank on Level G. Cheaper 'sheruts' (shared taxis) into Tel Aviv meet all flights to Tel Aviv. The journey into Tel Aviv by road takes around 20-40 minutes. There is a rail station in Terminal 3 with trains to Tel Aviv reaching the city centre in about 15 minutes. 

 Diaspora Museum (Beit Hatefutsot) 
Discover the music, costumes and cultural diversity of the Jewish people during their 2000 years of worldwide diaspora, including historic film footage, at this big museum near the university in north Tel Aviv.
www.bh.org.il

 Bauhaus Architecture 
Many buildings in Tel Aviv's older neighbourhoods are built in the distinctive 1930s modern style known as International or Bauhaus. The city has the largest number of Bauhaus buildings in the world. In July, 2003, UNESCO, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, proclaimed the unique urban and historical fabric of old Tel Aviv as a World Heritage site, under the name "The White City". Explore Bauhaus architecture along older central streets, some buildings handsomely restored, especially along Rothschild Boulevard.
www.white-city.co.il

 Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel)
Wander the packed, hectic alleyways of Carmel Market (daily except Sat). Evocative, atmospheric, old-fashioned, it fills a network of narrow lanes with a fragrant cornucopia of produce.

 Eretz Israel Museum
The huge Eretz Israel Museum in North Tel Aviv is a remarkable historical, ethnographic and archaeological museum. It encloses the site of an excavated tel - a hill consisting of remnants of civilisations layered one top of another - and  explores 3000 years of history on this site. Additional displays cover the history and culture of ancient Israel through folklore, Judaica and traditional arts and crafts. More recent history includes wine and oil presses and a flour mill.
www.eretzmuseum.org.il

 Jaffa
Picturesque Old Jaffa in south Tel Aviv was, according to the Bible, the major trading port of ancient Israel. Today it's Tel Aviv's favourite dining district, with great fish restaurants and views along the coast. Its steep stairways and narrow alleys edged by high walls climb between the waterfront and the central Kedumim Square, linking old and new districts. In the square, there is an underground museum and a tourist information centre. Rising from the square is a peaceful park adorned with modern sculptures.

 Tel Aviv Museum of Art
With a major collection of 20th-century European art, the museum - first opened in 1932 in the home of Tel Aviv's first mayor, Meir Dizengoff - has long been Israel's leading modern art museum. It focuses especially on Modernism, Impressionism and Post-Impression, and has a growing collection of important Contemporary art. The museum also hosts classical and jazz concerts, performance arts, lectures, dance, and cinema.
www.tamuseum.com

Tel Aviv's main shopping experiences are the malls, the stores along Sheinkin and Dizengoff avenues, atmospheric traditional Carmel  Market and the hip craft market
  Tourists benefit from a zero rate of VAT (a tax on transactions) on many items. When making your purchase, ask for a Tax Refund Invoice; then, when leaving the country, take the invoice to the tax refund desk at the airport for the VAT refund.
Judaica - City centre Tel Aviv shops and craft market stalls sell a wide variety of Judaica (hanukkiot, mezuzas, kippot, dreidels, etc) from classic silverware to innovative designs and materials.
Jewellery - Fine silverwork, gold, jewellery set with diamonds, are all locally made by talented craft workers, often with imaginative designs and very reasonable prices. .
Designer fashions - Israel is fashion conscious, with a stylish informality all its own. Casual clothes and beachwear are specialities.
Arts and crafts - Stroll the craft market at the northern end of Nahalat Binyamin for artworks and handmade jewelry by local artists. 
Shuk bargains - Wander the central Hacarmel lane through Shuk HaCarmel (Carmel Market) to find stalls selling cheap-and-cheerful souvenirs .

- At Jewish religious sites men should cover their heads (paper yarmulke or kippah usually available free if required).
- Shabbat shutdown: from Friday late afternoon to Saturday evening, many attractions are closed and there is no public transport.
- A good bus service with low fares serves all of Tel Aviv. Or pay around 30% more to travel by sherut - a shared taxi plying a fixed route.
- The Hebrew word 'kosher' means conforming to Jewish religious law. Many Tel Aviv restaurants are kosher. Some of the basic rules are no pork, no shellfish and keeping meat and milk completely separate - although kosher imitations of non-kosher foods (especially shellfish) are common and may be indistinguishable from the real thing.
- Haggling or bargaining are not usual in Israel (other than in Arab markets and Arab stores).

Jewish religious festivals and holidays (just like Shabbat) are all 25 hours long, starting at nightfall and ending the following nightfall.
Festival dates and anniversaries are fixed according to the ancient Jewish calendar, and may fall on a different date every year.
Muslim, Christian and other religious holidays are also observed by members of those communities.

Israel Independence Day
19 April in 2010 - starts evening of 18 April
Celebrations of the declaration of the State of Israel in 1948, concerts and picnics, throughout the city

Joan Armatrading concert
5 Jun 2010 at 9.30pm
Frederic R. Mann Auditorium

Abu Ghosh Vocal Music Festival
Annually at Shavuot (May) and Sukkot (October).
19-20 May 2010 and approx 23-26 October 2010.
The hosts are Muslim, most guests Jews, and the venues Christian churches for four days of superb Baroque and Renaissance liturgical choral music at this village on the road to Jerusalem.
www.agfestival.co.il

Israel Festival
24 May-10 June 2010
Three-week festival with events in Jerusalem and nationwide, including Tel Aviv, celebrating Israeli and foreign contemporary performing arts as well as music from pop to classical.
www.israel-festival.org.il