FCUS GUIDES

Once upon a time Bruges was among the richest towns in Europe, thanks to a profitable traditional of skilled lace-making and weaving. As its traditional industry declined, and Flanderss too lost its importance, Bruges became such a backwater that for centuries it remained virtually unchanged. Then Bruges was discovered again, cleaned and polished, repaired and restored. Today its central squares and lanes and canalside walks are among Europe’s most treasured possessions, a perfect, storybook town of old Flanders.
 

The main tourist office is at 11 Burg. Tel. 050 44 46 46.  www.brugge.be
  If arriving in Bruges by train, catch a bus or cab from the station to the town centre. Almost all buses go to Markt, the service is frequent, and the drivers speak English.
  Orient yourself from Markt, the central square. The tourist office is in the adjoining square, Burg. A canalside street nearby, called Dijver, is the place to find the great Flemish art museums of Bruges
 

Bruges is 10 miles inland from the Belgian coast. It’s a 15-minute drive from Ostend, and about an hour from Calais.
  Arriving by car, travel on motorway A10 (E40) and take exit 8 for Bruges. You'll come to the ring road around Old Bruges.
  Arriving by train, the station is just outside the edge of Old Bruges. It's about 10 minutes walk from central Markt square, or catch a bus from the station to any part of town.
  Old Bruges forms a neat circle enclosed by waterways. On the eastern side, park-like ramparts follow the ring of canals and are topped by four windmills. Cross the ring road and canal to enter the bumpy cobbled streets of the old centre.
 

Bruges is a jewel, exquisitely romantic and old-fashioned, set down on the flat green fields of Flanders.
  Its canals, cobbles, ornate gables and belfries come together in picture-perfect proportions. Strolling in the fairy-tale streets and lanes of Bruges, crossing canal bridges or walking beside the dark shimmering water, especially in the evening when spotlights pick out landmark spires, is like wandering inside a work of art.
  True, it gets terribly crowded at peak holiday times. But Bruges out of season, especially in pearly spring or autumn light, when wisps of morning mist linger over the water, feels almost secretive.
  One way for a quick look at the town is a half-hour guided canalboat excursion. Another is a tour by horsedrawn carriage.
 

Bruges is a walking town, almost everything of interest being within the central ring of canals. One of the most enjoyable options for getting around is to join the locals and get on a bike - the tourist office lists several cycle hire companies.
 

It’s chips with everything – but don’t call them “french fries”, because chips were actually invented in Belgium, or at least, in Flanders. Just say "frîtes". Moules-frîtes is the favourite local meal: a pan of freshly boiled mussels and a plate of fries. Local specialities include a fish and wine stew called Waterzooi (there’s a chicken version too), and Karbonnade, a mouthwatering stew of beef braised in beer. For a light, cheap lunch, many bars serve freshly made soup and bread for 3 or 4 euro.

Top dining Three-star De Karmeliet (tel. 050 33 82 59), close to the old centre of Bruges, is considered one of the best restaurants in Europe. Modern, stylish and elegant, it serves luxurious and imaginative meals from about €60 (£40) per head for a three-course set menu, plus wine from a huge list.

Here for the beer - To visit Belgium and not try locally brewed beer would be like going the Champagne and not drinking any champagne. Most bars offer a wide selection of traditional ales, priced around 3 – 4 euro, each served in its own distinctive style of glass. Beware – Belgian beers pack quite a punch, some as high as 8° or 9°. Try a Kwak, a golden, frothy brew in a round-bottomed glass that can’t stand up by itself! The refreshing Straffe Hendrick comes from local brewery De Halve Maan (26 Walplein) and the powerful Brugse Tripel is another local product, from Gouden Boum brewery (45 Langestraat). Both the Bruges breweries give guided tours.

Hotels - Book Bruges accommodation many weeks in advance. There are dozens of hotels to suit all budgets, many with masses of old-fashioned charm, in the historic town centre. Some of the best-value 3-star hotels are in the streets north of Markt, for example, the 15th-century family-run Hotel Bryghia.
 

- Where is it?
  Near the coast of Belgium, in western Europe.
- International phone dialling code:
  00 32 (+ drop initial 0 of phone number).
- Time zone:
  GMT/BST + 1 hour.
- Money:
  Euro.
 

 Markt and Burg 
These are the two impressive and lively main squares at the heart of town, and here are several of the main sights. Among them are the atmospheric Basilica of the Holy Blood (housing a container of what is supposedly the blood of Jesus Christ), the dignified Town Hall and gilded Renaissance Hall, and the massive Belfort or town belfry – climb 366 steps to the top for a wonderful panorama.

 Choco-Story  
This amazing and surprisingly serious museum has fascinating displays, including Aztec and Mayan treasures, giving an in-depth look at Belgium’s most famous product. (St Jansplein).
www.choco-story.be/

 Groeninge Museum 
This is the town’s outstanding principal art collection, with Flemish Old Masters as well as modern Belgian artists like surrealist Magritte. Close by are several other museums. (12 Dijver)

 Begijnhof 
On the south side of Old Bruges, this is the peaceful waterside haven where pious women called beguines lived in little white cottages around a tree-shaded lawn. Today, it is a community of nuns. One of the original beguine houses is open to visitors.

 Kantcentrum (Lace Centre)  
This little craft museum is a must for lace lovers. Set behind a slightly creepy pilgrimage church, it displays exquisite antique Flemish lace and, every afternoon, is the place to see lace still being made in the traditional way. You can buy it here too. (Peperstraat)
www.kantcentrum.com/
 

Hand-made chocolates can be bought at dozens of excellent speciality shops like Van Oost, 11 Wollestraat, just off Markt. Buy ready made selections or choose your own.
Fine lace has long been a Bruges speciality, still sold by many small shops with prices from about 4 euro for a handkerchief or 25 euro for a shirt, and beautifully embroidered lace and silk shirts from around 120 euro.
Belgian beers - stock up with a selection of at any supermarket.
Antiques and curiosities - The little Antiques and Secondhand market on the Dijver canalside every Sunday (also Sat in summer season) looks like a flea market, but genuine antiques can be found.
 

Mar 6-16 (2008) - Cinema Novo
New films from the Third World are showcased at this annual festival. See the films at cinemas around town. There's also an award for the company that buys the winner.
www.cinemanovo.be  

May 1 (2008) - Holy Blood Procession
A suitably medieval piece of religious pageantry is the major event of the Bruges calendar. The Heilig Bloedprocessie, or Procession of the Holy Blood,  takes place on Ascension Day each year and always follows the same programme - 0830-1015 Veneration of the Relic; 1100 High Mass; 1500-1800 Procession of the Holy Blood; 1800 Benediction and Worship of the Relic.
www.holyblood.org

Jul and Aug - Summer music
The Cactus Festival is a popular laid-back mix of styles. Musica Antiqua is a chance to hear live medieval music at venues around town. Klinkers is Bruges' big summertime festival of open-air concerts, film and all-round fun for everyone. It takes place all over town and almost everything is free.
 

Getting to Bruges

Andrew Sanger travelled with Inntravel, short break specialists who have a selection of 3-star and 4-star hotels of character in the heart of Bruges.
  He travelled via the Channel Tunnel (Folkestone to Calais) with Eurotunnel. From Calais to Bruges takes under an hour on the motorway. Inntravel can also arrange travel to Bruges by train.