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Bruges

Bruges Markt  Bruges canals

Bruges canals


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The music of bells is everywhere in Bruges, from clink-clonking belfries to the tinkling bells of bicycles bumping over the cobbles. Of all the things to do and see in this exquisite town, the best is simply to stroll, listen and look. It’s hard to imagine anywhere lovelier for simply wandering idly along beautiful old streets, with frequent pauses to admire pretty scenes, medieval houses, winding canals and tempting shop window displays of lace and diamonds and chocolates laid out like jewels. Life revolves around Markt, the central square where the people of Bruges gather at scores of outdoor tables, lingering over strong coffee or glasses of local beer. Steep gabled rooftops in the Flemish style rise above restaurants and bars. Follow a picturesque canal side called Dijver to reach the town’s art museums. Beyond, white swans glide on a dark lake called Minnewater. That’s Flemish for Lake of Love.


What, why, where

Bruges in French, Brugge in its own language, Flemish, this was once among the richest towns in Europe. In the Middle Ages, its merchant class prospered from the town's skilled lace-makers and high-quality weavers.
  Eventually the cloth-making industry declined, and Flanders too lost its importance. Bruges became such a backwater that for centuries it remained virtually unchanged.
  In the 20th century, Bruges was discovered again, cleaned and polished, repaired and restored. Today its central squares and lanes and canalside walks are among Europe’s most treasured possessions, a perfect, storybook town of old Flanders.

Getting started

The main tourist office is at 11 Burg. Tel. 050 44 46 46.  www.brugge.be
  If arriving in Bruges by train, the station is just outside the edge of Old Bruges. It's about 10 minutes walk from central
Markt square, or catch a bus from the station to any part of town. Buses are frequent and drivers speak English.
  Orient yourself from Markt, the central square. The tourist office is in the adjoining square,
Burg. A canalside street nearby, called Dijver, is the place to find the great Flemish art museums of Bruges

Compass points

Bruges is 10 miles inland from the Belgian coast. At its centre, Old Bruges forms a neat circle enclosed by a ring of waterways. On the eastern side, park-like ramparts follow the ring of canals and are topped by four windmills. Cross the ring road and canal to enter the bumpy cobbled streets of the old centre.

Get the feel

Bruges is a jewel, exquisitely romantic and old-fashioned, set down on the flat green fields of Flanders. Its canals, cobbles, ornate gables and belfries come together in picture-perfect proportions. Strolling in the fairy-tale streets and lanes of Bruges, crossing canal bridges or walking beside the dark shimmering water, especially in the evening when spotlights pick out landmark spires, is like wandering inside a work of art.
  It gets terribly crowded at peak holiday times. But Bruges out of season, especially in pearly spring or autumn light, when wisps of morning mist linger over the water, feels almost secretive.
  One way for a quick look at the town is a half-hour guided canalboat excursion. Another is a tour by horsedrawn carriage.

Getting around

Bruges is a walking town, almost everything of interest being within the central ring of canals. Another enjoyable way to get around is to join the locals and ride a bike - the tourist office lists several cycle hire companies.

Eat, drink, stay

It’s chips with everything – but don’t call them “french fries”, because chips were actually invented in Flanders. Just say "frieten" or "frîtes". Mosselen met frieten (or moules-frîtes) is the favourite local meal: a pan of freshly boiled mussels and a plate of fries. Local specialities include a fish and wine stew called Waterzooi (there’s a chicken version too), and Karbonnade, a mouthwatering stew of beef braised in beer. For a light, cheap lunch, many bars serve freshly made soup and bread.

Top dining As well as good down-to-earth eating, Bruges offers an extraordinary array of acclaimed gastronomic dining. For 2012, Bruges has an astonishing total of eight Michelin-starred restaurants.
  Two of them have 3
Michelin stars, making them among Europe's top restaurants. De Karmeliet, close to the old centre, is modern, stylish and elegant, and serves luxurious, imaginative meals from about 80 for a 3-course set menu, plus wine from a huge list. Hertog Jan, in the suburb Sint-Michiels, offers delectable, perfectionist dishes with an emphasis on health and simplicity, with beautiful vegetables, herbs and flowers. Menu prices start at €75 for the 3-course set lunch.
  The town's other
Michelin-starred restaurants are: 2 stars: De Jonkman and  Danny Horseele; 1 star: Sans Cravate Den Gouden Harynck De Herborist Aneth.

Here for the beer - To visit Belgium and not try locally brewed beer would be like going to France and not drinking any wine. Bruges bars offer a wide range of traditional Belgian ales, priced around 4 - 5, each served in its own distinctive style of glass.
  The refreshing Straffe Hendrick comes from Bruges brewery De Halve Maan (26 Walplein).
  The
powerful local favourite Brugse Tripel was a creation of the Gouden Boum brewery (45 Langestraat), but is now brewed by Palm at Steenhuffel.
  Beware – Belgian beers pack quite a punch, some as high as 8° or 9°.


Hotels - Book well in advance. There are dozens of hotels to suit all budgets, many with masses of old-fashioned charm, in the historic town centre. Some of the best-value 3-star hotels are in the streets north of Markt, for example, the 15th-century family-run Hotel Bryghia

Bruges Basics

- Where is Bruges?
  Near the coast of Belgium, in western Europe.
- International phone dialling code:
  00 32 (+ drop initial 0 of phone number).
- Time zone:
  GMT/BST + 1 hour.
- Money:
  Euro (€).

Must-see

 Markt and Burg 
Markt is the beautiful and lively main square at the heart of town, and Burg is the equally impressive adjoining square. Here are several of the main sights. Among them are the atmospheric Basilica of the Holy Blood (housing a container of what is supposedly the blood of Jesus Christ), the dignified Town Hall and gilded Renaissance Hall, and the massive Belfort or town belfry – climb 366 steps to the top for a wonderful panorama.

 Choco-Story  
This amazing and surprisingly serious museum has fascinating displays, including Aztec and Mayan treasures, giving an in-depth look at Belgium’s most famous product. (St Jansplein).
www.choco-story.be

 Groeninge Museum 
This is the town’s outstanding principal art collection, with Flemish Old Masters as well as modern Belgian artists like surrealist Magritte. Close by are several other museums. (12 Dijver)

 Begijnhof 
On the south side of Old Bruges, this is the peaceful waterside haven where pious women called beguines lived in little white cottages around a tree-shaded lawn. Today, it is a community of nuns. One of the original beguine houses is open to visitors.

 Kantcentrum (Lace Centre)  
This little craft museum is a must for lace lovers. Set behind a slightly creepy pilgrimage church, it displays exquisite antique Flemish lace and, every afternoon, is the place to see lace still being made in the traditional way. You can buy it here too. (Peperstraat)
www.kantcentrum.com

Buy it

Hand-made chocolates can be bought at dozens of excellent speciality shops like Van Oost, 11 Wollestraat, just off Markt. Buy ready made selections or choose your own.

Fine lace has long been a Bruges speciality, still sold by many small shops with prices from about 4 euro for a handkerchief or 25 euro for a shirt, and beautifully embroidered lace and silk shirts from around 120 euro.

Belgian beers - stock up at any supermarket.

Antiques and curiosities - The little Antiques and Secondhand market on the Dijver canalside every Sunday (also Sat in summer season) looks like a flea market, but genuine antiques can be found.

In the Know

Don't ask for a "beer" - what kind do you want? Most bars have a huge beer menu. The waiter will be happy to explain.
Avoiding the crowds - Bruges is at its very best in spring and autumn.
Never on a Monday - Most museums and sights are closed on Monday (some on Tuesday, too).
Park the car and forget about it. Bruges is geared to walkers and cyclists, not drivers.
Ne parlez pas - Don’t bother to practise your French in this Flemish-speaking town – locals prefer English and many speak it very well.

Events and festivals

Cinema Novo
8-18 Mar 2012
New films from the Third World are showcased at this annual festival. The focus this year is on Brazil. See the films at cinemas around town. There's also an award for the company that buys the winner.

www.cinemanovo.be  

Holy Blood Procession
17 May 2012
A suitably medieval piece of religious pageantry is the major event of the Bruges calendar. The Heilig Bloedprocessie, or Procession of the Holy Blood,  takes place on Ascension Day each year and always follows the same programme - 0830-1015 Veneration of the Relic; 1100 High Mass; 1500-1800 Procession of the Holy Blood; 1800 Benediction and Worship of the Relic.
www.holyblood.org

Jul and Aug - Summer music
The
Cactus Festival (6-8 July 2012) is a popular laid-back open-air festival with a party atmosphere at Minnewater park. Klinkers (approx first 2 weeks in August - tbc for 2012) is Bruges' big summer festival of open-air concerts, film and all-round fun for everyone. It takes place all over town and almost everything is free.

Getting to Bruges

Road - The simplest and most obvious way to go to Bruges from the UK is by car. Cross (beneath) the English Channel with Eurotunnel or choose from a number of ferry routes. From Calais takes under an hour on the motorway, or from Ostend it's 15-minute drive.
  Travel on motorway A10 (E40) and take exit 8 for Bruges. You'll come to the
ring road around Old Bruges.

Google map - road approaches to Bruges

Rail - It's also easy to travel to Bruges by train - London to Brussels by Eurostar takes around 2 hours, and the ticket includes onward rail travel to Bruges. For other rail information, visit the website of SNCB (Belgian Railways),

Air - Air travellers from over 200 cities worldwide arrive at Brussels airport and Brussels South (Charleroi) airport, which both have direct connections to Bruges.





 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bruges
Text © Focus Guides and Andrew Sanger.

All pics
© Toerisme Brugge (used with permission).
Text updated: Jan 2012
.
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