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Bruges in French, Brugge in its own
language, Flemish, this was once among the
richest towns in Europe. In the Middle Ages, its merchant class
prospered from the town's skilled lace-makers and high-quality weavers.
Eventually the cloth-making industry
declined, and Flanders too lost its importance. Bruges became
such a backwater that for centuries it remained virtually
unchanged.
In the 20th century, Bruges was discovered again, cleaned and
polished, repaired and restored. Today its central squares and
lanes and canalside walks are among Europe’s most treasured
possessions, a perfect, storybook town of old Flanders.
The main
tourist
office
is at 11 Burg. Tel. 050 44 46 46.
www.brugge.be
If arriving in Bruges by train, the station is just outside the edge of
Old Bruges. It's about 10 minutes walk from central
Markt square, or catch a
bus from the station to any part of town. Buses are frequent and drivers speak English.
Orient yourself from Markt, the central square. The tourist office is in
the adjoining square,
Burg.
A canalside street nearby,
called Dijver, is the place to find the great Flemish art museums
of Bruges
Bruges is 10 miles inland from the Belgian coast. It’s a 15-minute drive from
Ostend, and about an hour from Calais.
Arriving by car, travel
on motorway A10 (E40) and take exit 8 for Bruges. You'll come to
the
ring road around
Old Bruges.
Old Bruges forms a neat circle enclosed by a ring of
waterways. On the
eastern side, park-like ramparts follow the ring of canals and
are topped by four windmills. Cross the ring road and canal to
enter the bumpy cobbled streets of the old centre.
Bruges is a jewel, exquisitely romantic and
old-fashioned, set down on the flat green fields of Flanders.
Its canals, cobbles, ornate gables and belfries come together in
picture-perfect proportions. Strolling in the fairy-tale streets
and lanes of Bruges, crossing canal bridges or walking beside
the dark shimmering water, especially in the evening when
spotlights pick out landmark spires, is like wandering inside a
work of art.
It gets terribly crowded at peak holiday times. But Bruges out of
season, especially in pearly spring or autumn light, when wisps
of morning mist linger over the water, feels almost secretive.
One way for a quick look at the town is a half-hour guided canalboat
excursion. Another is a tour by horsedrawn
carriage.
Bruges is a walking town, almost everything of
interest being
within the central ring of canals. Another enjoyable
way to get around is to join the locals and ride a
bike - the tourist office lists several cycle hire companies.
It’s chips with everything – but
don’t call them “french fries”, because chips were actually
invented in Flanders. Just say "frieten"
or "frîtes". Mosselen met frieten (or moules-frîtes) is the favourite local meal: a
pan of freshly boiled mussels and a plate of fries. Local
specialities include a fish and wine stew called Waterzooi
(there’s a chicken version too), and Karbonnade, a mouthwatering
stew of beef braised in beer. For a light, cheap lunch, many bars
serve freshly made soup and bread.
Top dining Three-star
De Karmeliet,
close to the old centre of Bruges, is considered one of the best
restaurants in Europe. Modern, stylish and elegant, it serves
luxurious and imaginative meals from about 80 euro per head for
a three-course set menu, plus wine from a huge list.
Here for the beer - To visit Belgium and not try locally
brewed beer would be like going to France and not drinking
any wine. Most Bruges bars offer a wide
selection of traditional ales, priced around 3 – 4 euro, each
served in its own distinctive style of glass.
The refreshing Straffe Hendrick comes from local
brewery De Halve Maan (26 Walplein) and the powerful Brugse
Tripel is another local product, from Gouden Boum brewery (45
Langestraat). Both breweries give guided tours.
Beware – Belgian beers pack quite a punch, some as high as 8° or 9°.
Hotels - Book Bruges accommodation
many weeks in advance. There are dozens of hotels to suit all
budgets, many with masses of old-fashioned charm, in the
historic town centre. Some of the best-value 3-star hotels are
in the streets north of Markt, for example, the 15th-century
family-run
Hotel Bryghia.
- Where is Bruges?
Near the coast of Belgium, in western Europe.
- International
phone dialling code:
00 32 (+ drop initial 0 of phone number).
- Time zone:
GMT/BST + 1 hour.
- Money:
Euro (€).
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Markt and Burg
Markt is the beautiful and lively main square at the heart of town,
and Burg is the equally impressive adjoining square. Here are several of the main sights. Among them are the
atmospheric Basilica of the Holy Blood (housing a
container of what is supposedly the blood of Jesus Christ), the dignified
Town Hall and gilded Renaissance Hall, and the
massive Belfort or town belfry – climb 366 steps to the
top for a wonderful panorama.
Choco-Story
This amazing and surprisingly serious museum has
fascinating displays, including Aztec and Mayan treasures,
giving an in-depth look at Belgium’s most famous product. (St Jansplein).
www.choco-story.be
Groeninge
Museum
This is the town’s outstanding principal art collection, with
Flemish Old Masters as well as modern Belgian artists like
surrealist Magritte. Close by are several other museums. (12
Dijver)
Begijnhof
On the south side of Old Bruges, this is the peaceful waterside
haven where pious women called beguines lived in little white
cottages around a tree-shaded lawn. Today, it is a community of
nuns. One of the original beguine houses is open to visitors.
Kantcentrum
(Lace Centre)
This little craft museum is a must for lace lovers. Set behind a
slightly creepy pilgrimage church, it displays exquisite antique
Flemish lace and, every afternoon, is the place to see lace
still being made in the traditional way. You can buy it here
too. (Peperstraat)
www.kantcentrum.com
Hand-made chocolates can be bought at dozens
of excellent speciality shops like Van Oost, 11 Wollestraat, just
off Markt. Buy ready made selections or choose your own.
Fine lace has long been a Bruges speciality, still sold by
many small shops with prices from about 4 euro for a handkerchief
or 25 euro for a shirt, and beautifully embroidered lace and silk shirts
from around 120 euro.
Belgian beers - stock up with a selection of at any
supermarket.
Antiques and curiosities - The little Antiques and
Secondhand market on the Dijver canalside every Sunday (also Sat
in summer season) looks like a flea market, but genuine antiques
can be found.
Mar 11-21 (2010) - Cinema
Novo
New films from the Third World are showcased at this annual festival. See the films at cinemas around town. There's also an
award for the company that buys the winner.
www.cinemanovo.be
May 13 (2010) - Holy Blood Procession
A suitably medieval piece of religious pageantry is the major event of the Bruges calendar. The
Heilig Bloedprocessie, or Procession of the Holy Blood,
takes place on
Ascension Day each year and always follows the same programme -
0830-1015 Veneration of the Relic; 1100 High Mass; 1500-1800
Procession of the Holy Blood; 1800 Benediction and Worship of
the Relic.
www.holyblood.org
Jul and Aug - Summer music
The
Cactus
Festival (9-11 Jul 2010) is a popular laid-back
open-air festival with a party atmosphere at Minnewater park.
Klinkers is Bruges' big summertime festival of open-air
concerts, film and all-round fun for everyone. It takes place all
over town and almost everything is free.
Road - The simplest and most obvious way to
go to Bruges from the UK is by car. Cross (beneath) the English Channel with
Eurotunnel
or choose from a number of sea ferries routes. From Calais to
Bruges takes under an hour on the motorway.
Rail - It's also easy to
travel to Bruges by train - London to Brussels by
Eurostar takes around 2 hours,
and the ticket
includes onward rail travel to Bruges. For other rail
information, visit the website of
SNCB (Belgian Railways),
Air - Air travellers from over 200 cities worldwide arrive at Brussels airport
and Brussels South (Charleroi) airport, which both have direct connections to
Bruges.
Don't ask for a "beer"
- what kind do you want? Most bars have a huge beer
menu. The waiter will be happy to explain.
Avoiding the crowds
- Bruges is at its very best in
spring and autumn.
Never on a Monday
- Most museums and sights are closed on Monday (some on
Tuesday, too).
Park the car
and forget about it.
Bruges is geared to walkers and cyclists, not drivers.
Ne parlez pas
- Don’t bother to practise your French in this Flemish-speaking
town – locals prefer English and many speak it very well.
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