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The dubious French popes of the
the 14th century may have proved a blessing to
the town's tourist industry, but while Avignon
was their capital it became a corrupt, overblown
haven for the flotsam and jetsam of Europe.
Something of that survives, though now it gives
Avignon a curious charm.
Directly opposite the station, a majestic
medieval gateway in the city walls opens onto
crowded Rue de la République, making its way
through the heart of town. All human life is
assembled along this exhilarating street, from
bankers to beggars, from the fashionable and chic
to scrounging New-Agers.
Avignon
tourist office
is just inside the town
walls at 41 Cours Jean-Jaures. This is a few
paces from the railway station.
Avignon's walled Old City
stands on the Rhône's east bank. Its main street is Rue de le République,
which runs through the centre of town to the main square, Place de l'Horloge.
Adjacent is Place du Palais, with the Papal Palace. Outside the
walled city, extensive modern districts extend
along the river in both directions, and eastwards.
While the real Avignon of today,
outside the tourist zone, is a large industrial
and commercial centre for the southern Rhône and
western Provence, the walled, preserved old
quarter retains great atmosphere.
Within the
walled Old City, there are several differing
neighbourhoods, including a sleazy, low-life
district in the south-east quarter, a historic residential area along Rue Carnot, and a little
more discreet charm in the quieter western side.
Avignon within the
ramparts, although extensive compared to other
walled towns, is all manageable on foot. The
areas of interest are mainly in the northern part
and around the Palais des Papes. There is a
good municipal bus service, both inside and
outside the old city, with an Old City bus
station in Place Pie.
There are scores of brasseries and
inexpensive eating places in and around Place de
l'Horloge. The tourist office website has
searchable pages on the town's hotels.
Hotel de l'Europe - Avignon's
legendary and classiest place to stay
is a glorious haven of good living tucked away
in its gardens in Place du Crillon. Its
restaurant, too, is one of the best in town. In
the last century, anyone who was anyone stayed
here - former guests include writers Charles
Dickens and Henry James, philosopher John Stuart
Mill, poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning, and all
wealthy Victorians on their way to the Riviera.
Ride the
Petit Train (little train) which tours the main streets
causing traffic chaos.
The two-storey traditional carousel in Place de l’Horloge
is fun for younger ones.
Also in the Place, buskers, jugglers and street theatre
provide constant entertainment.
By rail -
Eurostar from London connects at Lille with TGVs
direct to Avignon. Or from Paris, TGV direct to
Avignon.
In summer only, there's a weekly Eurostar
direct from London to Avignon.
www.eurostar.co.uk
www.sncf.com
By air - Flybe fly direct to Avignon from Southampton, Exeter and Birmingham. There are flights to
Marseille Provence airport on Easyjet (from London and Bristol)
and Ryanair (London and Edinburgh).
- Where is Avignon?
It's in the south of France, about 75km (40 miles) from the
Mediterranean.
- International phone
dialling code:
00 33 (+ drop initial 0 from local number)
- Time zone:
GMT/BST + 1 hour.
- Money:
Euro (€). |
Place
du Palais
Immense, uninhabited Place du
Palais is the enormous cobbled square dominated
in spirit by the memory of medieval pomp and
splendour, and, physically, by the monumental
bulk of the mighty Papal Palace. Around the Place, as
around the whole town, there are lavishly ornate
mansions.
At the far end of the square, the Petit Palais is a good museum of medieval art. Above
the square, beside the main part of the Papal
Palace, is the town's cathedral, topped with an
oversized statue of Our Lady.
Papal Palace / Palais des
Papes
Every visitor to the town makes their way
to this grim, imposing fortress, which is actually two palaces
in one - to the right the austere structure built in 1342, and
behind it the more elegant building erected ten years later.
You may wander
inside it on your own or with a guided tour (in
English) through room after empty room. The now
lifeless palace is all of big, white flag stones,
massive halls, gorgeously frescoed walls and
decorated timber ceilings.
Arguably Avignon makes too much of its popes, who
were only here for 100 years, from 1309 to 1403.
Rome remained the Catholic capital and the
Avignon papacy was soon marginalised. Yet Avignon
remained theirs, and in fact did not become part
of France again until 1791.
Place du Palais.
www.palais-des-papes.com
Pont St-Bénézet
Here is the Pont d'Avignon
on which on y danse. It's a lovely,
curious, fortified stone bridge which extends
into the Rhône and then stops in midstream, the
rest having been washed away in a succession of
Rhône floods over the centuries.
Bénézet was a
shepherd boy who - under divine instruction -
built the bridge between 1177 and 1185, bringing
prosperity to the town and sanctity to himself.
Beside the entrance to the bridge, the Musée en
Images tells the city's story in pictures.
Rue Ferruce.
www.palais-des-papes.com/pages/pontactu.html
Place de l'Horloge
Everything and everyone converges
on Place de l'Horloge, the enticing traffic-free
main square, half-shaded by leafy plane trees,
dominated by the grand old town hall and
surrounded by hundreds of brasserie tables under parasols.
It's a good spot to
linger over breakfast, lunch or dinner, or just a drink,
watching the whole spectrum of passers-by and street
entertainers from acrobats to accordionists.
Rocher des Doms
Opening off the Place du Palais,
the lofty Rocher des Doms gardens is an enticing,
peaceful park of shady ponds, paths and
flowerbeds. It climbs to a viewpoint from which
most of Western Provence can be seen.
Local specialities include
Papalines d'Avignon liqueur chocolates, Côtes du Rhône wines,
pastis, fougasse bread, Provence herbs, and out-of-town regional
treats such as candied fruit and nougat.
- Avignon PASSion - completely free from
the tourist office, gives discounts on entry to
sights and attractions.
- Book well ahead if you want to stay in
the Old City.
- Private guided tours in English are
available at short notice from the tourist office
guide service.
- Boat trips on the Rhône are among the
excursions bookable at the tourist office.
- Rendez-Vous
from the tourist office and the weekly magazine César
give details of concerts, discos, events, shows,
exhibitions.
Ask at the tourist
office for the monthly events bulletin called Rendezvous.
Weekly magazine
César gives details of concerts, discos, events, shows,
exhibitions. There's always a lot going on, with
a
full programme of annual events.
Among the highlights ...
Avignon Festival
7-28 July 2012
Ideally you should book accommodation in spring if you're
planning to visit the city during the
Avignon Festival, a world-class classical theatre extravaganza
throughout July.
Despite its high-brow programme focusing on
classical and modern drama, the festival brings a crowded party
atmosphere and non-stop fringe activities.
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