FCUS GUIDES

The dubious French popes of the the 14th century may have proved a blessing to the town's tourist industry, but while Avignon was their capital it became a corrupt, overblown haven for the flotsam and jetsam of Europe. Something of that survives, though now it gives Avignon a curious charm.
   Directly opposite the station, a majestic medieval gateway in the city walls opens onto crowded Rue de la République, making its way through the heart of town. All human life is assembled along this exhilarating street, from bankers to beggars, from the fashionable and chic to scrounging New-Agers.

Avignon tourist office is just inside the town walls at 41 Cours Jean-Jaures. This is only a few paces from the railway station. Cours Jean-Jaures becomes main street Rue de la République.

The focal point of historic walled Avignon is Place de l'Horloge. The walled town stands on the Rhône's east bank. The very extensive modern districts of the town extend along the river in both directions, and eastwards.

While the real Avignon of today, outside the tourist zone, is a large industrial and commercial centre for the southern Rhône and western Provence, the walled, preserved old quarter retains great atmosphere. Within the walls, too, there are several differing neighbourhoods, including a sleazy, low-life district in the south-east quarter, and an interesting residential area along and off Rue Carnot in the east and north-east, and a little more discreet charm in the quieter western side.

The old city of Avignon within the ramparts, although extensive compared to other walled towns, is all manageable on foot. The areas of interest are mainly in the northern part and around the Palais des Papes. There is also a good municipal bus service, both inside and outside the old city, with an Old City bus station in Place Pie.

There are scores of brasseries and inexpensive eating places in and around Place de l'Horloge. The tourist office website has searchable pages on the town's hotels.
Hotel de l'Europe 12 pl. Crillon, tel. 04 90 14 76 76. Avignon's legendary - and still classiest - place to stay is this glorious haven of good living tucked away in its gardens in Place du Crillon. Its restaurant, too, is one of the best in town. In the last century, anyone who was anyone stayed here - former guests include writers Charles Dickens and Henry James, philosopher John Stuart Mill, poet Elizabeth Barrett Browning, and all wealthy Victorians on their way to the Riviera.

Ride the Petit Train (little train) which tours the main streets causing traffic chaos.
The two-storey traditional carousel in Place de l’Horloge is fun for younger ones. Also in the Place, buskers, jugglers and street theatre provide constant entertainment.

By rail - Eurostar from London connects at Lille with TGVs direct to Avignon. Or from Paris, TGV direct to Avignon. In summer only, there's a weekly Eurostar direct from London to Avignon.
www.eurostar.co.uk or www.sncf.com.
By air - Ryanair flights from London to Nimes.

Papal Palace / Palais des Papes 
Immense, uninhabited Place du Palais is the enormous cobbled square dominated in spirit by the memory of medieval pomp and splendour, and, physically, by the monumental bulk of the mighty Papal Palace. You may wander inside it on your own or with a guided tour (in English) through room after empty room. The now lifeless palace is all of big, white flag stones, massive halls, gorgeously frescoed walls and decorated timber ceilings.
   Every visitor to the town makes their way to this grim, imposing fortress, which is actually two palaces in one - to the right the austere structure built in 1342, and behind it the more elegant building erected ten years later. Yet arguably Avignon makes too much of its popes, who were only here for 100 years, from 1309 to 1403. Rome remained the Catholic capital and the Avignon papacy was soon marginalised. Yet Avignon remained theirs, and in fact did not become part of France again until 1791. Around the Place, as around the whole town, there are lavishly ornate mansions. At the far end of the square, the Petit Palais is a good museum of medieval art. Above the square, beside the main part of the Papal Palace, is the town's cathedral, topped with an oversized statue of Our Lady.
Place du Palais.
www.palais-des-papes.com

Pont St-Bénézet 
Here is the Pont d'Avignon on which on y danse. It's a lovely, curious, fortified stone bridge which extends into the Rhône and then stops in midstream, the rest having been washed away in a succession of Rhône floods over the centuries. Bénézet was a shepherd boy who - under divine instruction - built the bridge between 1177 and 1185, bringing prosperity to the town and sanctity to himself. Beside the entrance to the bridge, the Musée en Images tells the city's story in pictures.
Rue Ferruce.
www.palais-des-papes.com/pages/pontactu.html

Place de l'Horloge 
Everything and everyone converges on Place de l'Horloge, the enticing traffic-free main square, half-shaded by leafy plane trees, dominated by the grand old town hall and surrounded by hundreds of brasserie tables under parasols. There it is sheer delight to linger over breakfast, lunch or dinner, or just a drink, watching not just the whole spectrum of passers-by but street entertainers from acrobats to accordionists.

Rocher des Doms 
Opening off the Place du Palais, the lofty Rocher des Doms gardens is an enticing, peaceful park of shady ponds, paths and flowerbeds. It climbs to a viewpoint from which most of Western Provence can be seen.

Local specialities include Papalines d'Avignon liqueur chocolates, Côtes du Rhône wines, pastis, fougasse bread, Provence herbs, and out-of-town regional treats such as candied fruit and nougat.

- Avignon Passeport - from the tourist office, gives discounts on entry to sights and attractions.
- Book well ahead if you want to stay in the Old City.
- Private guided tours in English are available at short notice from the tourist office guide service.
- Boat trips on the Rhône are among the excursions bookable at the tourist office.
- Rendez-Vous from the tourist office and the weekly magazine César give details of concerts, discos, events, shows, exhibitions.

Avignon Festival - 4-26 July 2008
Ideally you should book accommodation in spring if you're planning to visit the city during the Avignon Festival, a world-class classical theatre extravaganza throughout July. Despite its high-brow programme focusing on classical and modern drama, the festival brings a crowded party atmosphere and non-stop fringe activities.  weekly magazine César give details of concerts, discos, events, shows, exhibitions.